Cellar Cooler Installation: What to Expect
The short answer is that a cellar cooler installation has three parts: working out how much heat the cellar gains, choosing where the indoor evaporator and outdoor condensing unit can sensibly go, and commissioning the system so it holds a steady temperature all day. The equipment is similar to a split air conditioning system, but it is built to run for long periods in a cool, damp room.
We install and look after cellar cooling for pubs, bars and restaurants, and a stable cellar matters because beer that sits too warm or swings in temperature pours badly and wastes stock. Here is what happens and what you can prepare.
The survey and heat load
At the survey we look at the size of the cellar, how well it is insulated, whether any walls face the sun or a warm kitchen, and what equipment sits in the space. Python coolers, line coolers and glass washers all add heat. So do deliveries, open hatches and staff going in and out on a busy night.
Getting the capacity right matters in both directions. An undersized cooler runs continuously and still drifts warm on a hot day. A heavily oversized one short cycles, which wears the compressor and does a poor job of controlling humidity.
Where the units go
- The evaporator is usually wall or ceiling mounted in the cellar, away from the door so it is not fighting every delivery
- The condensing unit goes outside, or in a well ventilated space, where it can reject heat freely
- Pipework and condensate drainage are routed as short and neatly as the building allows
- Access for future servicing is planned in rather than squeezed in afterwards
Preparing the cellar
Clearing space around the walls where the evaporator will go saves time on the day. It also helps to fix obvious heat sources first: a gap under the cellar door, an uninsulated hatch or a python cooler venting into the cellar can undo much of the cooler's work. We will point these out at survey, because a small fix can make a smaller cooler perfectly adequate.
Installation and commissioning
On the day we mount the units, run and insulate the refrigerant pipework, connect the drain and power, then pressure test and evacuate the system before charging it. Commissioning includes setting the thermostat, checking the cellar pulls down to temperature and confirming the defrost and condensate drainage are working. The work is done by F-Gas certified engineers and the refrigerant is recorded against the system.
We try to plan installs around trading so the cellar is not left warm during a busy session. Tell us your delivery days and peak times when you book.
Keeping it running
Cellar coolers work hard in summer, and a blocked condenser or iced evaporator is the usual reason a cellar creeps warm. Regular cleaning of the outdoor coil and a check of the evaporator and drain keep the system efficient. Many hospitality clients include cellar cooling in a refrigeration maintenance contract so it is checked before the warm months rather than after a failure.
FAQs
Common questions
What temperature should a beer cellar be?
Most brewers recommend around 11 to 13°C for cask and keg. Our beer cellar temperature guide goes into the detail.
Can the outdoor unit go in a yard or on a wall?
Usually yes. It needs free airflow and somewhere it will not blow warm air straight back into a door or window. We agree the position with you at survey.
How long does a cellar cooler installation take?
It depends on pipe routes and access, so we give you a realistic timescale with the written quote after the survey rather than guessing on the phone.
Do you replace existing cellar coolers?
Yes. We can assess an ageing or failing cooler and tell you honestly whether a repair or a replacement makes more sense.
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